POWDER ROUGE PREPARATION

COSMETOLOGY
(NFNF 2522)

DR HALIZA BT KATAS

TITLE:

Powder Rouge Preparation

DATE OF EXPERIMENT:

24th March 2016

OBJECTIVES:

• To formulate dry powder rouge.

• To study the factors affecting color shading in powder.

• To evaluate the effect of storage condition on final product.

INTRODUCTION:

              Rouge is a cosmetic used to apply color to the cheeks and also known as blusher.  This make up comes with variety of colors for example rosy, soft-pink and hot red. Rouge helps make your beautiful face glow and look lovely. It is apply on cheek bone. Application is fairly straightforward, though it's important to avoid overdoing the look. Blush adds color to your cheeks, which can help make you look healthier if you don’t have natural redness there. Also, if you’re wearing foundation, blush will help keep you from looking washed out. Modern rouge preparation come in the form of liquid, cream and dry solid forms. Blush comes in cream and powder formulas. Normally, dry solid form is suitable for oily face while cream form is best for dry skin. Powder rouges did not differ radically from face powders apart from being more highly colored and opaque. This required higher concentrations of dyes and pigments along with opacifiers like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

MATERIALS:

Kaolin, Talc, Magnesium stearate, Zinc Oxide, Colorant, 

Rice starch, Titanium dioxide.

APPARATUS:

Mortar and Pestle, Spatula, Weighing boat, 

Weighing balance, Containers.

PROCEDURES:

1. 60g of basic powder preparation without coloring agent (P0) is prepared.
2. Another 60g of powder rouge containing 4% of an insoluble red coloring agent (P4) is prepared.
3. Other powder rouge preparations is prepared by diluting the 4% powder rouge accordingly to obtain various shades of colors.
4. The suggested concentration of coloring agent is 0.5-4%.

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The materials are mixed using mortal and pestle.

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                   Doubling up method is used to mix all the materials in equal distribution.

Table 1: Basic Powder Formulation without Coloring Agent and with Coloring Agent

Basic Powder Formulation		60g of P0 (0%) (g)	60g of P4 (4%) (g)
Kaolin	16%	9.6	9.6
Talc	48%	28.8	28.8
Magnesium stearate	6%	3.6	3.6
Zinc oxide	5%	3	3
Rice starch	10%	6	6
Magnesium carbonate	5%	3	3
Colorant	4%	-	2.4
Titanium dioxide q.s. ad	100%	6	3.6

Table 2: Table of Four Other Powder Rouge 
Preparations 

Code	Colorant (%)	Amount of P4 (g)	Amount of P0 (g)	Total amount of rouge (g)
P1	4	20	-	20
P2	3	15	5	20
P3	2	10	10	20
P4	1	5	15	20
P5	0.5	2.5	17.5	20
	Total (g) :	52.5 (≈60)	47.5 (≈60)

RESULTS:

1.         Powder Rouge in the Dark.

Code	Color Separation	Change in Color	Flow Properties
P1	No	No	Good
P2	No	No	Good
P3	No	No	Good
P4	No	No	Good
P5	No	No	Good

2.         Powder Rouge When Exposed to Sunlight

Code	Colour Separation	Change in Colour	Flow Properties
P1	No	No	Good
P2	No	No	Good
P3	No	No	Good
P4	No	No	Good
P5	No	No	Good

3.         Powder Rouge When Test on Cheek

Code	Duration of Application	Result
P1	6 Hours	No irritation, smooth
P2	6 Hours	No irritation, smooth
P3	6 Hours	No irritation, smooth
P4	6 Hours	No irritation, smooth
P5	6 Hours	No irritation, smooth

Chart of Color Shading

DISCUSSION:

                Rouge has its own history which goes way back in centuries and as used as early as in ancient Egypt. During those times, crushed mulberries, red beet juice and red amaranth were used as rouge to give the reddish appearance. However, modern rouge consists of red-colored talcum based powder applied to cheeks. Powder rouge can also be termed as powder blusher which comes in compacted powder. It is usually made from talcum, colorants and other additives. Some formula prefers corn starch, rice powder or arrowroot powder. Powder rouge is generally easier to apply compared to cream rouge and recommended for oily skin type as it absorbs excess face oil. Cream rouge is generally made from oils, waxes, colorants, additives and sometimes even talcum. It is usually sold in tubes. Cream rouge is slightly harder to apply compared to powder rouge due to the possibility of the color to streak or clump. It is recommended for dry skin type as it contains water and adds moisture to the face.

            According to the Food and Drug Administration, color additive as defined by the regulation is any dye, pigment, or other substance that can impart color to a food, drug, or cosmetic or to the human body. Color additives are important components of many products, making them attractive, appealing, appetizing, and informative. Dyes are a common color additives added to food or cosmetics. Dyes possess their colors due to its light absorbing visible spectrum (400 – 700 nm). Dyes differ with pigment in which dyes are soluble in water or organic solvent while pigments are insoluble in both types of liquid vehicle. Dyes can be water soluble or oil soluble thus solubility of dyes in powder and in cream rouges is important to give the color effect. Water soluble dyes are usually found in powder form. Because there is no binder in dyes, the rouge color can be darken or lighten accordingly by controlling the amount of dyes used. However, dyes fade in UV light so it is important to store colored cosmetics away from direct sunlight. Water soluble dyes will give off a more transparent layer on the skin of the wearer while oil soluble dyes which are usually used in cream rouge can give a more uniform and smooth layer on the skin.

            The basic powder formulation for powder rouge made was kaolin, talc, magnesium stereate, zinc oxide, rice starch, magnesium carbonate, colorant (red 101 or Scarlet RN) and titanium dioxide. 5 formulations (P1, P2, P3, P4 and P5) were made, each weighing about 20 grams of powder formulation but with different amount of colorant. P1 with 4% colorant produces the most intense colour followed by P2 which only contain 3% colorant, P3 with 2% colorant, P4 with 1% colorant and the least intense colour, P5 with only 0.5% colorant. From here, it can be seen that the higher amount of colorant added, the more visible or intense the colour of the product. It can also be said that the difference in colour from darker to lighter colour for P1 to P5 were due to the increasing amount of diluents together with the decreasing amount of colorant, making the colour lighter.

            From the graph on the result section, we could know that the concentration of the colorant is the one who will determine the color shadings of powder and cream rouges. This is because when a greater amount of (P4) are added in the formulation, the darker the shadings of powder rouges form will be. P4 is the formulation that has been added 4% of colorant of the total weight of formulation meanwhile P0 are the formulation that has not contain any colorant. C5 has 0.5% of colorant (2.5g of P4 mix with 17.5g of P0), C4 has 1% of colorant (5.0g of P4 mix with 15.0g of P0), C3 has 2% of colorant (10.0g of P4 mix with 10.0 of P0), C2 has 3% of colorant (15.0g of P4 mix with 5.0g of P0) and C1 has 4% of colorant (20.0g of P4). The colour shading increases from A1 to A5.

  The ingredients in the dry powder rouge preparation are kaolin, talc, magnesium stearate, zinc oxide, rice starch, colorant and titanium dioxide. Kaolin is a natural clay-like mineral and is composed of silica, iron, magnesium, calcium, sodium, zinc and other mineral. Kaolin is a white insoluble powder which has excellent absorbent quality which is used to draw out impurities and toxins. It is also an anti-caking agent which will helps in preventing the powder from caking and clump. Rice starch also has the same absorbent properties as kaolin and it is plant extract and  seldom use for an oily type. Talc finds use as a cosmetic (talcum powder), as a lubricant. Other than that, talc mattes or hues the skin; it can have an antibacterial effect as well, thus preventing skin impurities. Magnesium stearate as is a glidant, substance that helps improving the flow ability of powders. As for zinc oxide, it acts as a bulking agent and permits it to cover the skin more thoroughly. Next is titanium dioxide which imparts a whiteness to color cosmetics and personal care products that are applied to the skin (including the eye area), nails, lips. It also helps to increase the opacity, and reduce the transparency of a product formula. Titanium Dioxide also absorbs, reflects, or scatters light (including ultraviolet radiation in light), which can help protect products from deterioration.

    When talking about the stability of the powder rouge, the powder rouge has been stored in different condition; exposed to sunlight and in dark. A few criteria that has been look for is the color separation, color changes and also the flow properties, whether it changed or not after the storage. From the test, we found that the stability are affected by light, temperature and humidity. At the end of the test, we see that there are no changes in texture and color, and they have a good spreadibility within its storage period either we kept them in the dark or exposed to to light. There are no color changes or separation in color because the preparation of the rouge does not involves any liquid substances and it was prepared in a really dry condition from the weighing substances, mixing it and even packaging. In addition, the formulation contains zinc oxide which act as sunscreen agent by reflecting and scattering UV radiation as mention above. This is why the products is protected from the deterioration. Besides, magnesium stearate which is a good glidant is also incorporated in the formulation. That is why the powder still has good flow properties even after a month of storage. Glidant is a substance that can improve the flowability of the powder.

         The powder rouge is keeps in the dark and exposed to sunlight for about one month. However, the rouge is not exposed directly to sunlight to prevent any change in chemical and physical stability. So, we decided to put it near the window so that we can monitor it often. Besides, we do not want the rouge to be exposed during rainy days to avoid any contamination before the expiring date. As direct sunlight may cause oxidation for certain substances and slightly changes in color. The preparation of rouge also does not involve liquid and was prepared in a very dry condition.  When conducting experiment, it is very important to make sure the formulations mixed well in order to avoid uneven distribution of the formulations. Hence, the doubling up technique should be applied properly.

CONCLUSION:

In conclusion, the color shading of powder rouge is based on the concentration of colorant.  The higher the concentration of colorant, the darker the color of the powder rouges. Exposure to direct sunlight may cause the separation of colorant, bad flow properties and change in color therefore storage conditions are very important. However, throughout this experiment, storage condition does not affect the stability of the dry powder rouge.

REFERENCES:

1. Hilfer , H. (1951). Rouges. Drug and Cosmetic Industry.  
       68, 2, February, 180-181, 246-247 ,                                         http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/rouge.php

2. Daniels, M. H. (1958). Rouges. Drug and Cosmetic   
              Industry. 83, 2, August, 162-163, 248-249, 

    http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/rouge.php

3. Anon. 2014. Cream Blush vs. Powder Blush.
    http://www.ebay.com/gds/Cream-Blush-vs-Powder-Blush/  
     /10000000177632680/g.html [16 September 2014]

4. Aulton, M.E. 2002. Pharmaceutics: The Science of Dosage     form Design. Edinburgh Churchill Livingstone.