SOAP FORMULATION

                   COSMETOLOGY

(NFNF 2522)

DR NG SHIOW FERN

TITLE

Soap Formulation

DATE OF EXPERIMENT

27th April 2016

INTRODUCTION 

            Soaps are carboxylate salts with very long hydrocarbon chains. Saponification is a process of making soap which is from fats and lye. For simple definition, it is a chemical reaction between an acid and base forming a salt. It is done by boiling them together under a certain temperature forming a crystalline nature of soaps before adding other substances. Hydrolysis of esters occur when triglyceride in fats/oils react with aqueous sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Acidic oils will neutralize the alkaline solution forming a salt. Thus, saponification occurs.

OBJECTIVES 

1. To understand the rationale behind the use of different types of ingredients in a soap formulation.
2. To understand the acid-base reaction (saponification process) by which soap is produced.
3. To evaluate the quality of products that have been produced.

APPARATUS 

Analytical balance, mould, beaker, porcelain mortar and pestle, glass rod.

MATERIALS 

Olive oil, vegetable shortening, coconut oil, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, glycerin, alcohol, castor oil, distilled water, petroleum jelly,  fragrance and essential oil, colorants, honey, oatmeal.

METHODS 

Honey and oatmeal soap bar :

Coconut oil	19.6%
Olive oil	19.6%
Vegetable shortening	29.6%
Sodium hydroxide	9.9%
Distilled water	20.9%
Honey	0.17%
Oats	q.s
Colorants	q.s
Fragrance/essential oil	3 drops

The above amounts were used.

1.The molds were clean and dried completely and greased with petroleum jelly.

2.The fats and oil (coconut oil, olive oil and vegetable shortening) were weighed using analytical balance.

3.The fats were melted in a porcelain evaporating dish on a water bath at around 40-50⁰C. After all the fats melted, it was removed from the heat.

4.Sodium hydroxide and water were weighed out. The sodium hydroxide were added into the water and mixed well. The solution was left to cool.

5.When the sodium hydroxide has completely dissolved in water, the solution was poured into the warm oil mixture. The oil will become opaque. The mixture was mixed in circular motion constantly for 15 minutes. It was rested and mixed more until it thickened.

6.The mixing was stopped after a ‘trace’ was formed. Honey oats, fragrance and essential oils were added and mixed well.

7.The soap was poured into the mold and was covered with cloth and kept at moderately warm temperature for about 24-48 hours.

8.The soap was removed from the mold. 

Mixture becomes opaque after sodium hydroxide is added

Color of soap mixture after colorant has been added

RESULTS 

SOAP   A	OBSERVATION
Effectiveness	The stain disappear, thus the soap are effective
Skin irritation	No irritation occur on the skin
Stability	Stable

SOAP   B	OBSERVATION
Effectiveness	The stain disappear, thus the soap are effective
Skin irritation	No irritation occur on the skin
Stability	Stable

DISCUSSION 

Soap is a product for cleaning made from natural ingredients that may include both plant and animal products, including items as animal fat, such as tallow or vegetable oil, such as castor, olive or coconut oil. The earliest known soap recipe was by the ancient Babylonians around 2800 B.C. Soap supposedly got its name from Mount Sapo in Rome. The word sapo, Latin for soap, first appeared in Pliny the Elder's Historia Naturalis. Through the ages soap has been used to wash wool in textile industry, to cure skin sores and diseases, to dye hair, and as a salve or skin ointment. But today it is generally used as a cleanser or perfume. There are some interesting facts about soap. Soaps have been categorized into several types depending on the particular purpose for which they are used. The soap industry is constantly working hard to produce newer soap formulas. There are soaps for personal use, laundry use, dishwashing and even pet cleaning. Over the course of millennia’s, soap managed to infuse itself into our culture and way of life. As one of the most primary means of maintaining personal hygiene, soaps lived through countless waves of improvements that enabled it mature into its modern state. In this experiment, we were required to make soap for personal use. There are several types of personal use soap which are hard soap, liquid soap, glycerine soap, and transparent soap.

            In this experiment, the ingredients in the soap are coconut oil, olive oil, vegetable shortening, sodium hydroxide, distilled water, honey, oats, colorants, and fragrance. Coconut oil is one of the oils for soap making that gives natural soap its lather and is good for all skin types. Coconut oil provides cleansing abilities and a big bubbly lather. Olive oil cleans the skin without stripping away the natural oils and the skin don't end up dry and flaky after its used. Olive oil also allows the skin to sweat and shed cells naturally. Other than that, Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH), also known as lye, is an essential ingredient in the soap making process. When sodium hydroxide beads are mixed with a liquid, a lye solution is created. This solution, when mixed with fats and oils, will cause a chemical reaction called saponification. The result of saponification is beautiful handmade soap. Distilled water is used to help activate the lye and disperse it through the oils. Besides, used of fine blended oats in the soap will add light exfoliation and will absorb and hang onto the essential oils. Honey is actually a pretty remarkable liquid and contains antioxidants, trace amounts of vitamins. It imparts a light, warm, sweet scent, the added sugar content helps increase the lather, and acts as a humectant. Colorant and fragrance are also added to make the soap looks more attractive and masks the unpleasant scent of other ingredients respectively.

            There are 2 types of soap that we had done during the lab session, Soap A and Soap B. Soup A and soap B contain same ingredients but different in fragrance and colouring. Soap A used purple colour with apple fragrance while soap B used red colour with floral fragrance. For the evaluation test on soap, first and foremost is about effectiveness. Generally, soap is an excellent cleanser because of its ability to act as an emulsifying agent. An emulsifier is capable of dispersing one liquid into another immiscible liquid. This means that while oil (which attracts dirt) doesn't naturally mix with water, soap can suspend oil/dirt in such a way that it can be removed. In this test, we found that both soap A and soap B  produced foam and able to remove dirt on clothes. It is able to remove ground dirt with some forces applies on it.

            The next one is about skin irritation. Normal healthy skin has potential of hydrogen (pH) range of 5.4-5.9 and a normal bacterial flora. The use of soap with high pH causes an increase in skin pH, which in turn causes an increase in dehydrate effect and skin irritation. For our soap, both of  it doesn’t irritate our skin even we use it for several times. One of the reason is that, our materials is light and safe which doesn’t cause harmful effects and the soap’s pH is compatible with our skin.

            Thirdly, the stability of the soap. The purpose of stability testing cosmetic products is to ensure that a new or modified product meets the intended physical, chemical and microbiological quality standards as well as functionality and aesthetics when stored under appropriate conditions. When we exposed it to sunlight, the soap became watery and contaminated due to exposure to sunlight and environment. The colour become colourless and fragrance. In cold area, the stability of our soap doesn’t show any effect. The colour and fragrance remains the same.

            While doing this product, some precaution steps have to be taken. Lye(sodium hydroxide)  is caustic. It can eat holes in fabric and cause burns on the skin. Extra caution must be taken when using lye. Use of gloves, eyes protection and a mask are desired. When the lye is mix with water, it will heat up and fume for about 30 seconds to a minute. It may cause a choking sensation in the throat. The lye must always be added to water and not water to lye. If allowed to clump on the bottom, it could heat up all at once and cause an explosion. Next, after making soap, the equipment that have been exposed to lye must always be cleaned. The lye can be neutralize by white vinegar, then the equipment are being washed well. For the rest of it, let it sit for several days because when we first make soap, it is all fat and lye. We will be washing forever and could burn our hands on the residual lye. If we wait, it becomes soap and all it takes to clean it is a soak in hot water.

CONCLUSION 

            In conclusion, we have determined the rationale behind the use of the different type of ingredients in soap formulations. We already understand the saponification process which is an acid-base reaction. Finally, the quality of the soaps had been showed by a few volunteers when the soap is safe and user-friendly. It also shows a good result with no side effects such as rash, irritation, itchy and the most important thing is, it has a good stability.

REFERENCES 

  1.Tanya (20^th September, 2013). Lovely Greens. Retrieved on 29^th April, 2015 from : http://lovelygreens.com/2013/09/natural-soapmaking-for-beginners.html

  2. Gehring W, Gehsen M, Zimmerman V, Gloor M. Effects of pH changes in a specific detergent  multicomponent emulsion on the water content of stratum corneum. J Soc Cosmet  Chem. 1991;42:327–33. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4171909/

  3. Control of Drug & Cosmetic Regulation. 2007. Biro Pengawalan Farmaseutikal Kebangsaan.  Kementerian Kesihatan Malaysia

  4. The Jabs Group, LLC. DIY Natural™. Handmade All Soap For Face and Body.

http://www.diynatural.com/how-to-make-soap-2/#back-to-top-tag (Accessed 7.5.2016)

  5. St. Joseph County 4-H Youth Program, St. Joseph County, Michigan. Soap Making. (updated July 2001) http://msue.anr.msu.edu/uploads/234/43487/still_projects/SoapMake.pdf

  6. Jordan Fox, CleanLink®. Types Of Soap: How To Pick Correctly. (2016)

http://www.cleanlink.com/sm/article/Types-Of-Soap-How-To-Pick-Correctly--4710 (Accessed 3.5.2016)

POWDER ROUGE PREPARATION

COSMETOLOGY
(NFNF 2522)

DR HALIZA BT KATAS

TITLE:

Powder Rouge Preparation

DATE OF EXPERIMENT:

24th March 2016

OBJECTIVES:

• To formulate dry powder rouge.

• To study the factors affecting color shading in powder.

• To evaluate the effect of storage condition on final product.

INTRODUCTION:

              Rouge is a cosmetic used to apply color to the cheeks and also known as blusher.  This make up comes with variety of colors for example rosy, soft-pink and hot red. Rouge helps make your beautiful face glow and look lovely. It is apply on cheek bone. Application is fairly straightforward, though it's important to avoid overdoing the look. Blush adds color to your cheeks, which can help make you look healthier if you don’t have natural redness there. Also, if you’re wearing foundation, blush will help keep you from looking washed out. Modern rouge preparation come in the form of liquid, cream and dry solid forms. Blush comes in cream and powder formulas. Normally, dry solid form is suitable for oily face while cream form is best for dry skin. Powder rouges did not differ radically from face powders apart from being more highly colored and opaque. This required higher concentrations of dyes and pigments along with opacifiers like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

MATERIALS:

Kaolin, Talc, Magnesium stearate, Zinc Oxide, Colorant, 

Rice starch, Titanium dioxide.

APPARATUS:

Mortar and Pestle, Spatula, Weighing boat, 

Weighing balance, Containers.

PROCEDURES:

1. 60g of basic powder preparation without coloring agent (P0) is prepared.
2. Another 60g of powder rouge containing 4% of an insoluble red coloring agent (P4) is prepared.
3. Other powder rouge preparations is prepared by diluting the 4% powder rouge accordingly to obtain various shades of colors.
4. The suggested concentration of coloring agent is 0.5-4%.

j

j

The materials are mixed using mortal and pestle.

k

                   Doubling up method is used to mix all the materials in equal distribution.

Table 1: Basic Powder Formulation without Coloring Agent and with Coloring Agent

Basic Powder Formulation		60g of P0 (0%) (g)	60g of P4 (4%) (g)
Kaolin	16%	9.6	9.6
Talc	48%	28.8	28.8
Magnesium stearate	6%	3.6	3.6
Zinc oxide	5%	3	3
Rice starch	10%	6	6
Magnesium carbonate	5%	3	3
Colorant	4%	-	2.4
Titanium dioxide q.s. ad	100%	6	3.6

Table 2: Table of Four Other Powder Rouge 
Preparations 

Code	Colorant (%)	Amount of P4 (g)	Amount of P0 (g)	Total amount of rouge (g)
P1	4	20	-	20
P2	3	15	5	20
P3	2	10	10	20
P4	1	5	15	20
P5	0.5	2.5	17.5	20
	Total (g) :	52.5 (≈60)	47.5 (≈60)

RESULTS:

1.         Powder Rouge in the Dark.

Code	Color Separation	Change in Color	Flow Properties
P1	No	No	Good
P2	No	No	Good
P3	No	No	Good
P4	No	No	Good
P5	No	No	Good

2.         Powder Rouge When Exposed to Sunlight

Code	Colour Separation	Change in Colour	Flow Properties
P1	No	No	Good
P2	No	No	Good
P3	No	No	Good
P4	No	No	Good
P5	No	No	Good

3.         Powder Rouge When Test on Cheek

Code	Duration of Application	Result
P1	6 Hours	No irritation, smooth
P2	6 Hours	No irritation, smooth
P3	6 Hours	No irritation, smooth
P4	6 Hours	No irritation, smooth
P5	6 Hours	No irritation, smooth

Chart of Color Shading

DISCUSSION:

                Rouge has its own history which goes way back in centuries and as used as early as in ancient Egypt. During those times, crushed mulberries, red beet juice and red amaranth were used as rouge to give the reddish appearance. However, modern rouge consists of red-colored talcum based powder applied to cheeks. Powder rouge can also be termed as powder blusher which comes in compacted powder. It is usually made from talcum, colorants and other additives. Some formula prefers corn starch, rice powder or arrowroot powder. Powder rouge is generally easier to apply compared to cream rouge and recommended for oily skin type as it absorbs excess face oil. Cream rouge is generally made from oils, waxes, colorants, additives and sometimes even talcum. It is usually sold in tubes. Cream rouge is slightly harder to apply compared to powder rouge due to the possibility of the color to streak or clump. It is recommended for dry skin type as it contains water and adds moisture to the face.

            According to the Food and Drug Administration, color additive as defined by the regulation is any dye, pigment, or other substance that can impart color to a food, drug, or cosmetic or to the human body. Color additives are important components of many products, making them attractive, appealing, appetizing, and informative. Dyes are a common color additives added to food or cosmetics. Dyes possess their colors due to its light absorbing visible spectrum (400 – 700 nm). Dyes differ with pigment in which dyes are soluble in water or organic solvent while pigments are insoluble in both types of liquid vehicle. Dyes can be water soluble or oil soluble thus solubility of dyes in powder and in cream rouges is important to give the color effect. Water soluble dyes are usually found in powder form. Because there is no binder in dyes, the rouge color can be darken or lighten accordingly by controlling the amount of dyes used. However, dyes fade in UV light so it is important to store colored cosmetics away from direct sunlight. Water soluble dyes will give off a more transparent layer on the skin of the wearer while oil soluble dyes which are usually used in cream rouge can give a more uniform and smooth layer on the skin.

            The basic powder formulation for powder rouge made was kaolin, talc, magnesium stereate, zinc oxide, rice starch, magnesium carbonate, colorant (red 101 or Scarlet RN) and titanium dioxide. 5 formulations (P1, P2, P3, P4 and P5) were made, each weighing about 20 grams of powder formulation but with different amount of colorant. P1 with 4% colorant produces the most intense colour followed by P2 which only contain 3% colorant, P3 with 2% colorant, P4 with 1% colorant and the least intense colour, P5 with only 0.5% colorant. From here, it can be seen that the higher amount of colorant added, the more visible or intense the colour of the product. It can also be said that the difference in colour from darker to lighter colour for P1 to P5 were due to the increasing amount of diluents together with the decreasing amount of colorant, making the colour lighter.

            From the graph on the result section, we could know that the concentration of the colorant is the one who will determine the color shadings of powder and cream rouges. This is because when a greater amount of (P4) are added in the formulation, the darker the shadings of powder rouges form will be. P4 is the formulation that has been added 4% of colorant of the total weight of formulation meanwhile P0 are the formulation that has not contain any colorant. C5 has 0.5% of colorant (2.5g of P4 mix with 17.5g of P0), C4 has 1% of colorant (5.0g of P4 mix with 15.0g of P0), C3 has 2% of colorant (10.0g of P4 mix with 10.0 of P0), C2 has 3% of colorant (15.0g of P4 mix with 5.0g of P0) and C1 has 4% of colorant (20.0g of P4). The colour shading increases from A1 to A5.

  The ingredients in the dry powder rouge preparation are kaolin, talc, magnesium stearate, zinc oxide, rice starch, colorant and titanium dioxide. Kaolin is a natural clay-like mineral and is composed of silica, iron, magnesium, calcium, sodium, zinc and other mineral. Kaolin is a white insoluble powder which has excellent absorbent quality which is used to draw out impurities and toxins. It is also an anti-caking agent which will helps in preventing the powder from caking and clump. Rice starch also has the same absorbent properties as kaolin and it is plant extract and  seldom use for an oily type. Talc finds use as a cosmetic (talcum powder), as a lubricant. Other than that, talc mattes or hues the skin; it can have an antibacterial effect as well, thus preventing skin impurities. Magnesium stearate as is a glidant, substance that helps improving the flow ability of powders. As for zinc oxide, it acts as a bulking agent and permits it to cover the skin more thoroughly. Next is titanium dioxide which imparts a whiteness to color cosmetics and personal care products that are applied to the skin (including the eye area), nails, lips. It also helps to increase the opacity, and reduce the transparency of a product formula. Titanium Dioxide also absorbs, reflects, or scatters light (including ultraviolet radiation in light), which can help protect products from deterioration.

    When talking about the stability of the powder rouge, the powder rouge has been stored in different condition; exposed to sunlight and in dark. A few criteria that has been look for is the color separation, color changes and also the flow properties, whether it changed or not after the storage. From the test, we found that the stability are affected by light, temperature and humidity. At the end of the test, we see that there are no changes in texture and color, and they have a good spreadibility within its storage period either we kept them in the dark or exposed to to light. There are no color changes or separation in color because the preparation of the rouge does not involves any liquid substances and it was prepared in a really dry condition from the weighing substances, mixing it and even packaging. In addition, the formulation contains zinc oxide which act as sunscreen agent by reflecting and scattering UV radiation as mention above. This is why the products is protected from the deterioration. Besides, magnesium stearate which is a good glidant is also incorporated in the formulation. That is why the powder still has good flow properties even after a month of storage. Glidant is a substance that can improve the flowability of the powder.

         The powder rouge is keeps in the dark and exposed to sunlight for about one month. However, the rouge is not exposed directly to sunlight to prevent any change in chemical and physical stability. So, we decided to put it near the window so that we can monitor it often. Besides, we do not want the rouge to be exposed during rainy days to avoid any contamination before the expiring date. As direct sunlight may cause oxidation for certain substances and slightly changes in color. The preparation of rouge also does not involve liquid and was prepared in a very dry condition.  When conducting experiment, it is very important to make sure the formulations mixed well in order to avoid uneven distribution of the formulations. Hence, the doubling up technique should be applied properly.

CONCLUSION:

In conclusion, the color shading of powder rouge is based on the concentration of colorant.  The higher the concentration of colorant, the darker the color of the powder rouges. Exposure to direct sunlight may cause the separation of colorant, bad flow properties and change in color therefore storage conditions are very important. However, throughout this experiment, storage condition does not affect the stability of the dry powder rouge.

REFERENCES:

1. Hilfer , H. (1951). Rouges. Drug and Cosmetic Industry.  
       68, 2, February, 180-181, 246-247 ,                                         http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/rouge.php

2. Daniels, M. H. (1958). Rouges. Drug and Cosmetic   
              Industry. 83, 2, August, 162-163, 248-249, 

    http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/rouge.php

3. Anon. 2014. Cream Blush vs. Powder Blush.
    http://www.ebay.com/gds/Cream-Blush-vs-Powder-Blush/  
     /10000000177632680/g.html [16 September 2014]

4. Aulton, M.E. 2002. Pharmaceutics: The Science of Dosage     form Design. Edinburgh Churchill Livingstone.